What I miss from Istanbul.
- Asma Hanifah
- Jun 27, 2020
- 6 min read
Updated: Jan 9, 2022
At the moment of writing this, I'm listening to one of the soundtrack of Room (2015) by Stephen Rennicks. And I guess that's why I feel a bit nostalgic.
The Goodbye.
It was late August 2019 when I eventually said goodbye to Istanbul and headed to the airport for the very last time, carrying anything from the last 5 years that I could squeeze in my luggage and backpack.
A farewell is never easy.
Even when I had a couple of extra months to slowly parting with the memories of my growth in my second home, even when I had been telling myself it's time, it still felt like saying goodbye to a huge part of my identity.
Throughout the 18-hours of flying back to Jakarta, my head was filled with the memories of the people, the streets, the noise, as well as the realization about the uncertainty of ever going back to the city and enjoy its heavenly beautiful dusk sky.
What if I'd never come back?
The thought gave me goosebumps.
It still does.
But there was also the excitement to move on to the next chapter of my life. The excitement to finally meet my family after 3 long years, to see my sister who was only two the last time I hugged her, and the excitement of stepping into the realm of professionalism.
Just like going down on a huge water slide, everything was scary but exciting at the same time.
The Hello.
I moved to Istanbul to pursue a bachelor's degree after being granted a full-ride scholarship from the Turkish government. (The journey has the story of its own, maybe we'll come to that later.)
It was on September 17, 2014, when our plane landed in Istanbul's Atatürk International Airport. I was only 17 and didn't know what lay ahead.
I came from a small town so everything about a big city excited me to the point of not having any clue what to expect (I know that doesn't make any sense).
To be honest, I didn't know ANYTHING about Turkey or Istanbul when I first came, except that the country has a Palestine supporting president and lies in both Europe and Asia.
Applying for the scholarship was completely gut-driven. I was only interested in the scholarship that covers everything from tuition fees and accommodation to health insurance and monthly stipends. My family was having a hard blow at that time, so I was all into free education.
I guess my cluelessness was for the better. Because the days that followed were sort of marching boxes of surprises.
I didn't know that Turkey has four seasons (which was dumb because Turkey is partly located in Europe), so I was thrilled to watch the trees turning orange and yellow and went CRAZY when the first snow was falling.
I didn't know that there are so many Indonesian students who'd settled in the city before us, so I was also thrilled to see such familiar faces speaking a familiar language who's committed to helping us the jet-lagged newcomers.
But it was also for the worst because we--me and my friends--didn't know the natives know very little to zero English, so asking directions involved quite a hustle with Google Translate, waving hands, and repeated words.
Everything else was good, really. Though we kept grumbling once or twice, we got over them eventually.
I remember the smell of our temporary dorm and the strange neighborhood. We didn't go out much on our first day, only to the nearby store to buy water and some bathroom supplies. We tried our first çorba (Turkish soup) later that evening, accompanied by the first senior to meet us, Teh Nabilah. I don't remember which kind that was but I do remember the bizarre taste that tingled my taste-bud.
I remember the bus ride to Kadıköy, a prominent neighborhood of the Anatolian side of Istanbul where one of the city's ferry quays is. The ride felt like going on for hours when really, it was only about 30 minutes, tops. That happens when you're unfamiliar with the road.
I remember our first tavuk döner and first ferry ride crossing Bosphorus to the European side.
I remember seeing the famous gate of my university and felt like I was dreaming. I remember the first visit to the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Topkapı Sarayı, Üsküdar, Dolmabahçe, Taksim, Eminönü, and other beautiful places around the incredible city.
I miss every inch of them terribly.
Everything in between.
I lived in Istanbul for five years, barely a quarter of my entire 22 years of life (as per 2019). But somehow, I felt more familiar with the streets and atmosphere of Istanbul.
I grew up in a strict and conservative family that didn't tolerate total freedom for their children. I had never traveled far without any of my family members. Never been to any field trip because there must be one thing or another that prevented me from going. No phone except on holidays when I had to use mom's which was frequently controlled. And of course, no boyfriends.
So moving out to Istanbul was the first time of my life when I gained complete freedom over everything that I do. I could befriend anyone, go anywhere, and chat with anyone without supervision. I was 17 and on the loose.
Luckily, mom and dad never stopped praying for my safety and well-being. The only time I left their sides was when I stayed in my school dorm, a 10-minute drive from our front door. So my leaving to Istanbul was sort of a nightmare they had to live and praying hard was one of their ways to cope.
Their prayers eliminated the distance and brought us close to each other. I felt their presence even though they were 9,000 kilometers away from my sight. I could see their anxious faces in my head and the look of disapproval every time I acted with a lack of judgment. It's amazing what prayers could do.
I crossed their boundaries, sure. Having a boyfriend and all. However, the broken heart that soon followed was meant to teach me lessons. The way Mark Manson put it; "I credit it with inspiring a significant amount of personal growth. I learned more from that single problem than dozens of my successes combined."
For 17 long years, I was protected from the evil part of myself. And destiny put me face to face with it as soon as I set my foot in the airport.
I still can't thank God enough for my luck; that He didn't throw me to the pit to face myself empty-handed. He sent me companions, people who were always there to pick me up when I fell down too deep into the hole. He graced me with epiphanies and realizations that helped me grow into a better person.
All of my mistakes shaped me into a better friend, a better sister, and a better daughter. 5 years later, I was born anew. Istanbul was like a cocoon that transformed me.
Every person that I met, every experience that I had, every ups and downs that I lived taught me what to be or not to be. What to do and not to do.
And on top of them all, I learned to love better.
I learned to love my family more, to respect my parents' decisions, and accept their imperfections.
I learned to love my friends more, to appreciate their compassion, and value every second we spent together.
Most importantly, I learned to love myself better. To realize that there will always be a million reasons to love her.
I credit my growth to my dad, mom, and my three little siblings who had always motivated me to do and become better.
To every single amazing soul whose face will appear before the screen who had supported me and took part in my journey.
To Özkök family who accepted me like their own. I pray for their health and countless blessings and may Allah reunite us soon.
To the streets of Üsküdar, Ümraniye, Avcılar, Fatih, Taksim, Osmanbey, Sariyer, Avcılar, Küçükçekmece, Büyükçekmece, Kartal, Pendik, Adalar, and the rest.
To the discussions I had in the classrooms of Istanbul Üniversitesi İletişim Fakültesi; the parks; the metros; the otobüses; IKEA restaurants, Simit Sarayı, Moda, Starbucks, Tavuk Dünyası, as well as the food courts of Can Park, Axis Istanbul, Istanbul Forum, Marmara Park, Cevahir, Özdilek, Kanyon, Tepe Nautilus, Marmara Forum, and the rest of the malls.
To every member of Ümraniyeler, Istanbul Community, PPI Istanbul, KJRI Istanbul, PPI Turki, Radio PPI Turki, Majalah Konstantinesia, and the rest that I may have forgotten to mention.
To every friendly stranger who helped me to find the correct direction or prepared the best köfte/şiş kebap/dürüm/pide/lahmacun.
To my college crush who remains mysterious.
And last but not the least, to Coldplay, Jason Mraz, Sleeping At Last, Tori Kelly, Hans Zimmer, Stephen Rennicks, Christopher Nolan, Game of Thrones, House MD, and every countless song/film-tv series/or famous person who had inspired me and accompanied my fights.
Thank you.
Thank you, Allah.
Thank you, world.
Thank you, Istanbul.

See you again soon.
Photo gallery
PS: The photos are not in chronological order.



















The special ones.









There are thousands of other photos to attach featuring other individuals who played a role in my 5 years story in Istanbul. I apologize if you didn't find your photo here but that doesn't mean I forgot you and your kindness.
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